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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.